In September, 1996, three friends and I were ready to hike Peru’s Cordillera Huayhuash circuit. Supplies and maps had been bought, transport to the trail arranged.
The night before we were due to leave Huaraz (the regional capital), news came through to the hotel at which we were staying that a hiking group were robbed at gunpoint whilst circumnavigating the Huayhuash. Robbery was not an uncommon occurrence in this area during the 1990’s, however, on this particular occasion one of the hiking party resisted (a young Israeli guy), and as a result was promptly marched off and killed at point blank range. The other three members of the group carried his body back to civilization.
As a result of the tragedy, we were informed that the area was “unsafe for foreigners at the present time.” Handing over some cash is one thing, potentially being shot is another matter entirely. After discussing the situation, the four of us decided to postpone the trip, and instead do a couple of shorter hikes in the nearby Cordillera Blanca range, namely the Santa Cruz and Quebrada Honda Treks.
Eighteen years later I returned to hike the Cordillera Huayhuash circuit.
Trip Report – September, 2014
Distance: 130 km approx.
Time: 5 days
Start / Finish:
- I started and finished in the village of Llamac.
- As of 2014, it appears most folks hiking the Huayhuash circuit are beginning their hike in Matacancha (now accessible by road) and finishing in Pallca or Llamac. This cuts one or two days off the overall time needed to complete a circuit (albeit a partially incomplete one).
- Llamac is situated a couple of hours by bus from the town of Chiquian (one or two departures per day), where I overnighted before starting the trek.
- Chiquian has multiple daily bus services to the regional hub of Huaraz (2.5 hours).
Maps / Info:
- I used the Alpenvereinskarte 1:50,000 Cordillera Huayhuash 0/3c. All you need for navigation purposes. It can be ordered online, or alternatively you can pick up a copy when you arrive in Huaraz.
- A basic description of the route can be found in Lonely Planet’s, Trekking in the Central Andes.
- Trekking Companies: It appears that more than 95% of people hiking in the Cordillera Huayhuash organize their trips through Huaraz based trekking agencies. These businesses provide transport, guides, cooks and pack animals. In fact, I only saw one other solo hiker during the course of my time in Huayhuash – an American guy by the name of Mike, whom I hiked with on the first day of the circuit.
- Season: The dry season of May to September is ideal for trekking. Nights can be chilly (-10°C is common), but days are generally clear.
- Supplies: Bring everything you need from Huaraz. The only place to purchase supplies on the actual circuit itself is in the tiny village of Huayllapa. If you’re hiking solo and in a clockwise direction, I highly recommend carrying just enough food to get you to Huayllapa (situated about 2/3 of the way through the circuit). Pick up the remaining two days worth of food when you pass through. This will save you carrying the extra weight from the start of your trek. There is a small restaurant and hotel attached to the store. I didn’t overnight, but I did stop in for a breakfast of eggs, bread and coffee.
- Acclimatization: Spend at least a few days in the Huaraz area acclimatizing before beginning the Huayhuash circuit. Elevations of 4300 metres (14,108 ft) are reached within a few hours of beginning the trek.
- Water: Ample water sources throughout the Huayhuash area. I didn’t carry more than a litre at any one time. Be sure to bring means of purification, as livestock can be found in all of the valleys.
- Fees: During the course of the circuit you will need to pay a series of fees to local communities. I forked out a total of around 190 soles (US$66) over six payments. It’s a pretty inefficient “system.” However, as of 2014 there doesn’t appear to be much in the way of fiscal trust between the neighbouring peoples. For the time being, this seems to preclude a more convenient “one time regional fee” type deal. Be sure to ask for a receipt after each and every payment.
- Do I need a guide? No. If you know how to use a compass and read a map, a guide is not necessary.
- What about pack animals? As I mentioned above, the vast majority of folks organise their trek via an agency. This is often the case for hikes in the Andes and Himalayas. I wrote an article about this subject for the website a few years ago. Ultimately it’s a personal choice. However, I will say this. If you have decent navigation skills, are well acclimatized and don’t mind the idea of carrying 4 to 6 days worth of supplies (pick up the last couple of days worth at the shop in Huayllapa), there is no need to have guides, cooks and pack animals.
- Impact: As the Huayhuash circuit increases in popularity, issues such as garbage disposal (or lack thereof) and trail erosion are increasingly in evidence. From an environmental perspective, this is perhaps the biggest plus of hiking sans pack animals. A team of donkeys causes considerably more damage to paths (not to mention the trail of shit they leave in their wake) than does a hiker sporting a pair of Vibram soles and possibly weilding a hiking pole or two. In regards to the subject of trash, if you do choose to go with an agency, before setting out double check with those in charge in regards to their environmental policies. If you are hiking solo, “pack it in, pack it out.”
- How long do I need? Generally speaking, groups take about 8 days for the abbreviated circuit starting from Matacancha, and 10 days for the full curcuit from Llamac. Note that these folks are carrying day packs and generally hike about 6 or 7 hours per day. If you are reasonably experienced, acclimatised and your pack doesn’t weigh the proverbial tonne, I think 8 days is a conservative estimate for how long it should take your average solo hiker to do a full circuit.
Route / Conditions:
- The trail is well trodden. Located entirely above tree line, when conditions are clear navigation is relatively simple. That being said, if the weather turns and you find yourself walking in rain/snow/clouds, basic navigation skills are essential if you choose to hike without a guide.
- Personally speaking, I recommend begininning and finishing in Llamac. It means three to four hours of retracing your steps at hike’s end, but the payoff is that it includes a cool section of trail between Lake Jahuacocha and Matacancha.
- During the course of a full circumnavigation there are 12 passes (including Punta Llamac twice) all of which are 4300 metres (14,108 ft) or higher.
- A short side trip that is not to be missed is to the Rio Pumarini hot springs. The water temps are perfect, neither too hot nor too cold, and there is plenty of camping close by.
- A pass which is generally not included in your standard Huayhuash circuit is San Antonio (5050 metres/ 16,568 ft). If you are comfortable descending steep scree slopes, I highly recommend including it in your trek. The views are amongst the best in the entire Huayhuash (see photo above).
- Scenically stunning from start to finish.
- One of South America’s premier mid-distance treks (i.e. between 100 and 200 km).
- A shout out to Sylvia, Diamond Dave and Fleischy, my three hiking and travelling partners from 1996. On the remote chance that any of you ever read this blog post, I hope you are all well and I can definitely say that the Huayhuash was well worth the 18 year postponement!