Salkantay Trek: Independent Hiker’s Guide

When most people think of hiking to Machu Picchu, the first name that comes to mind is the Inca Trail. And justifiably so. For decades that classic trek was the sole focal point for anyone looking to arrive at the fabled ‘lost city’ on foot. However, as Machu Picchu’s fame increased, so did the quantity of people wanting to experience the Inca Trail. In the early 2000’s authorities installed a much needed quota on hiking numbers, a decision which led to the emergence of the Salkantay Trek on the world’s backpacking radar.

I hiked the Salkantay Trek in August, 2017. The information contained below is mostly geared towards hikers who choose to do the walk independently rather than with a guided group (Note: Since 2001 it is prohibited to hike the Inca Trail without a guide).

Ryan “Dirtmonger” Sylva descending from Salkantay Pass (4630m/15,190ft).

Distance:  57.2 miles ( 92 km)

Avg. Time:  5 days.

  • That is the standard amount of time taken by guided groups . If you are fit, acclimatised and carrying a light pack, there are no real issues in doing the hike in three or four days if you feel like it.

Start:  Mollepata

  • As of 2017, virtually all organized groups start at Soraypampa, which cuts off some 12 miles/20 km from the overall distance mentioned above. We decided to begin our hike at the traditional trailhead of Mollepata, and hike from there to Soraypampa.  From Mollepata you can either follow the dirt road or take a well marked trail (the signed junction is just a few minutes out of town) all the way to Soraypampa.

Finish: The summit of Machu Picchu mountain.

  • The traditional end of the Salkantay Trek is the Machu Picchu archeological site. We decided to extend it a little by making the summit of Machu Picchu Peak (3061m / 10,042ft) our finishing point.

Yours truly and Ryan “Dirtmonger” Sylva on top of Machu Picchu Peak – finishing point of our Salkantay Trek.

Highest Point: Salkantay Pass 4630 m (15,190 ft)

Lowest Point: Hydroelectric Plant 1800 m (5906 ft)

Difficulty:  Easy to moderate.


    • Mollepata – Three hours by regular buses from Cusco. Cost 15 Peruvian Soles (about US$5). As of 2017, you can catch daily minibuses from near the junction of Arcopata and Avenida Apurimac. They usually leave around 7 to 8 am.
    • Machu Picchu – Returning to Cusco from the finish of the hike is either expensive or time consuming. The priciest, easiest and most comfortable way is to take the train from Aguas Calientes to Cusco (4 hrs). Alternatively you can catch the train to Ollantaytambo, then take a Collectivo minibus or taxi from there to Cusco (between 3 hrs and 4 hrs total). Finally, the cheapest and most time consuming way to return to Cusco from Machu Picchu is as follows: 1. Walk the 11 km back to the Hydroelectric dam along the railroad tracks; 2. From there take a minibus or collective taxi to the village of Santa Teresa; 3. Catch another bus back to Cusco. This three step journey can take the best part of an entire day depending on connections, and you may well find yourself overnighting in Santa Teresa; not such a bad thing as it does sport some soothing hot springs (Note: If you plan on taking the train, you should book well in advance).

The world’s most futile hitching attempt on the way to Aguas Calientes (photo from Ryan Sylva).

SeasonPossible all year, though the dry season between May and October is ideal. During this period nights can be chilly (0°C is common), but days are generally clear.

Guidebook / Maps / Online Information:

  • Guidebook: Alexander Stewart’s The Inca Trail (2013) contains trekking notes and basic maps for the Salkantay Trek (as well as other hikes in the area).

Permits & Fees: No permits are needed to hike the Salkantay Trek. However, you will need to purchase an entrance ticket to the Machu Picchu archeological site and Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu peaks. Independent hikers can organise these in advance through the official Peruvian Ministry of Culture website. Alternatively, if you are going with an organised group, the tour company may do it for you. It’s worth noting that as of 2017, you can also pick up entry tickets to Machu Picchu (but not the peaks) once you arrive in Aguas Calientes. 

For a thorough overview of the ins and outs of purchasing Machu Picchu tickets, see Thrifty Nomads.

The view from Machu Picchu Peak overlooking the citadel and Huayna Picchu (Photo courtesy of Ryan Sylva)

FoodYou have a few options: 1. Bring all your supplies from Cusco; 2. Purchase provisions and organise meals along the way at Soraypampa, Colpapampa and La Playa, or; 3. Do a combination of both. We went with the final option, and enjoyed a few wonderful home cooked meals during our journey. For those interested in taking the same approach, I’d recommend starting the trek with no more than two days food.

Water: Plenty of water available throughout the trek (we never carried more than 1.5 lt at a time), however, due the prevalence of livestock and human settlement it is recommended that all water should be treated.

Guided Vs Independent: More than 95% of hikers tackle the Salkantay Trek as part of a guided group. However, if you have the necessary gear (it’s also possible to rent equipment in Cusco) and a reasonable amount of backpacking experience, there are no issues with doing the hike independently. The trail is easy to follow throughout its course and as mentioned above, you can purchase food along the way (i.e. which translates to a lighter load). 

DM descending the Quebrada Humantay.

How does the Salkantay differ from the Inca Trail? The primary differences are as follows: it’s longer, slightly more challenging, less crowded, boasts a greater variation of ecozones, but doesn’t have the multiple archeological sites that you can visit on the Inca Trail. It’s also cheaper, irrespective of whether you go with an organized group or independently; significantly so if you choose the later option. In short, they are different treks that both happen to end at the same spectacular destination.

Overview map of different trails to Machu Picchu (

Trekking Notes:

    • Overall Character: The Salkantay is perhaps most notable for its ecological diversity. It traverses picturesque valleys, alpine meadows, goes up and over a dramatic mountain pass and meanders its way through a lush subtropical rainforest.
    • The Pass: The high point both geographically as well as scenically is the 4630 m (15,190ft) Abra Salkantay. Upon reaching this spectacular pass, hikers are afforded jaw-dropping vistas of Mount Salkantay (6271 m), a peak that has long been considered sacred by the inhabitants of the Peruvian Andes.

Views from Salkantay Pass.

    • Transformation: From the pass, the trail descends more than 2000 meters (6562 ft) into cloud forest. The change in flora, as well as temperature is dramatic. Along the way there are various accommodation/camping options where it is possible to break up the descent (i.e. Huayracmachay, Collpapampa and Challway).

    • Ascend to Llactapata: Not long after leaving the friendly village of La Playa, the pathway ascends again via banana and coffee plantations (be sure to stop for a cup or two) to the recently rediscovered ruins of Llactapata. There is a campsite close to the archeological site with impressive views towards Machu Picchu.
    • Along the Tracks: From Llactapata the trail goes steeply downhill to the hydroelectric plant. Soon after you pass the railway station where provisions can be purchased. From this point it is a flat and easy 11 km to the town of Aguas Calientes following the railway tracks.
    • Stairway to Inca Heaven: The final stage of the Salkantay is steep, short and includes hundreds of steps. Give yourself anywhere between 45 minutes and an hour and a half to hike from Aguas Calientes up to the entrance to the archeological site. From there it is another 30 minutes to an hour to reach the summit of Machu Picchu mountain.
      • DM walking through a coffee plantation on the way to Llactapata.

      • Stages: The Salkantay Trek is commonly broken down into the following five stages:
        • Day 1Mollepata to Soraypampa: 20 Km (12.4 miles);
        • Day 2:  Soraypampa to Collpapampa: 22 Km (13.7 miles);
        • Day 3Collpapampa to La Playa: 16 Km (9.9 miles) (**Update – March 13, 2018: According to report, trail between Collpapampa and La Playa is closed due to landslides. No information as to when it will be cleared; in the meantime take road instead. See comments below – Calvin Benson – for details).
        • Day 4La Playa to Aguas Calientes: 25 Km (15.5 miles) – via Llactapata;
        • Day 5Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Peak: 9 Km (5.6 miles).

          Ascending the steps to Machu Picchu Peak (photo courtesy of Ryan Sylva).

Final Thoughts:

    • Route Choices: There are a few different route options for the Salkantay Trek. I would suggest the following: 1. Start at Molletapa, rather than Sorayapampa; 2. Take the trail rather than the dirt road on the section between Colpapampa and La Playa; 3. Opt for the trail to Llactapata, rather than the dirt road to Santa Teresa. Yes, it is harder, but the payoff is a beautiful walk through coffee plantations and great views of Machu Picchu in the distance.
    • Go Independent: By any criteria, the Salkantay is not a difficult trek. If you have the gear, are reasonably fit, well acclimatized and know how to follow a trail, I’d highly recommend going independently. It’s a lot cheaper, a bigger sense of accomplishment, more opportunities to interact with locals, and you gift yourself the element of freedom; the freedom to choose where you camp, what you eat, whom you hike with (if anyone), when you take a break, how fast or slow you walk, etc.  

Yours truly at the end of the Inca Trail in 1996, and 21 years later at the end of the Salkantay Trek.


Salkantay Trek: Independent Hiker’s Guide — 71 Comments

  1. My husband and I hiked the Salkantay Trek in February of this year. In many years of backpacking, we had never opted to go on a guided hike, but the complexity of transportation logistics and the lack of readily available topo maps led us to book a guided trek last-minute. On our hike we saw a few intrepid, independent hikers — my hats off to you and to them!

    Though I was skeptical about going with a guide, I ultimately enjoyed it tremendously. We had local guides who opened the door for us to interact with other locals beyond what I believe I would have been able to do, even as a Spanish speaker; the food provided was unbelievably good; we got to sleep in a glass igloo the first night; and traveling for five days with others in our group had the benefit of letting us become more connected with fellow hikers than the more casual connections I’m used to making on the trail.

    That said, there are plenty of trekking companies ready to take travelers’ money — and not all are reputable. We did our research and were ultimately happy with Salkantay Trekking Company ( We were able to reduce the trek price because we had already bought train tickets and permits for Machu Picchu, which brought the cost for 5 days including all food, transportation and lodging about $180.

    Travelogue, including GPS track, at

    • Hi Edith,

      Thanks for the detailed message. It’s always good to have folks that have enjoyed different experiences chime in. I remember seeing those glass igloos you mentioned!



    • hi guys, i just read your blog after this comment…. how did you manage to get this amazing prize??? i wrote to Salkantay Trekking, and they didn’t allow me to do the same, and offered me a pack of $420, very far from your prize…. can you help me with this? thanks in advance!

  2. Great post,

    Did the Inca trail twenty years ago with a guided group. Although I’ve enjoyed the guided tour it was the beginning of many years of independent hikes all over the world. Great to see this alternative track, maybe I will go back one day.

    Greets from Belgium, Bart

  3. Must have been a great feeling getting back to Machu Picchu after all those years, particularly getting there under your own steam.

  4. Thanks for sharing an independent approach to Machu Picchu and opening the door for me. I have put this on the list and look forward to some hiking in Peru.

  5. Hi Cam, I’ve recently did the Salkantay Trek with a guide and you’re right. Going independently would be better because it’s not a difficult trek at all. And since I visited during the rainy season, we had to walk on the road instead of the original trail quite a lot. I wrote about the experience on the blog and also included your guide for people wanting to go independently.
    Happy travels!

  6. Thanks for all the helpful information, thinking of making this trek without a guide next September. What about campsites along the trail? Do these need to be booked in advance? Thanks again.


    • Plenty of camping options along the way. No need to book in advance if you are hiking independently. All the best on your trip!



  7. Hey Cam, thanks for the info. I read that the ticketing guidelines at Machu Picchu may have changed last July and you now have to enter with a guide, among other limitations. Was that your experience in August? Any issues there? Thanks again.


    • Hey Jason,

      It wasn’t obligatory to have a guide at Machu Picchu last August. That said, you do need to organise your permits for the peaks and site beforehand. Be sure to bring a paper copy of your reservation/s to the site if you are going independently.



  8. Hey Cam,

    I’m just wondering how this trek stacks up against the Inca trail in your opinion? Did you find one more enjoyable then the other? Did one have better views then the other? Was one more challenging? Thanks in advance!


    • Hey Vaughan,

      They are different treks that both end up at the same spectacular destination. I can’t say that one is better than the other. I did the Inca Trail back in 1996. At that time it could still be done independently; these days it is obligatory to go with a guide/group and is quite expensive. The Salkantay can still be done without an agency if you so choose.

      In regards to other differences, Inca Trail has some great archeological sites along the way, whereas the standout feature of the Salkantay (at least from my perspective) is the ecological diversity encountered during its course. Perhaps the Salkantay is slightly more challenging from a physical standpoint. The views are amazing on both hikes.



      • Thank you for such a quick reply! Your article has convinced me to hike the Salkantay trail sometime in the near future. I hope to follow a similar itnerary to you starting at Molletapa and finishing at one of the peaks. I’m unsure whether I would rather finish at the Machu Picchu peak or hike up to the busier Huayna Picchu peak. What made you guys choose the Machu Picchu peak over the Huayna Picchu?


        • Hey Vaughan,

          No worries. I had been up Huayna Picchu in 1996, so I thought it would be good to check out the view from the other peak this last time around.



  9. Cam

    Thank you for the great advice. I’m doing this trek independently with my son (26) in August. Can you tell me whether there are lodges/teahouses on the route as we do not want to carry food or camping equipment. Thank you.

    • Hi Andrew,

      There are some lodges along the way, which depending on availability, you might be able to book in advance. I suspect they are mostly filled up with trekking agency groups.

      In regards to food, as I mentioned in the article, you can purchase meals and/or pick up supplies at Soraypampa, Colpapampa and La Playa.



  10. Hi! Thank you for the great information. I will be doing the trek in March. You noted permits are not required, but I read in Alexander Stewart’s book that a permit needs to be purchased for the section from Soray Pampa to Lucmabamba. Did you have to by a permit for this checkpoint or bypass it?

    • Hi Emily,

      To the best of my knowledge you do not need a permit to hike any part of the Salkantay Trek, with the exception of the finish at Machu Picchu. Best of luck on your hike!



    • Hi Emily. Are you camping or planning to stay in lodges en route? I’ve been trying to work out accom other than carrying my own and would be grateful for post trip advice/tips.


      • Hi Andrew,
        I will be camping the whole time with three other people. I’ve read there can be lodging options along the route. I found a company that you can book through Airbnb that organizes accommodations for you along the trek. It seemed to have good lodging options and to be reliable, but more money than we wanted to spend.

  11. Hey all,

    This report and comment section is great, since I am also planning my trip (together with two others) in April! We actually plan on doing the hike ourselves and we were just not sure about water and food supply. But seems that there is plenty of chances to by things along the way, right?

    I heard from someone who is currently there, that it is not allowed to go without a guide anymore??She apparently talked to different companies and they told her so. Has anyone information on this? I can’t seem to find anything about this in the web.

    Best wishes, Barbara

    • Hi Barbara,

      I’d take that information about not being able to do the Salkantay independently with a large grain of salt. As of the end of last year, it was definitely possible.



  12. Hello!

    I know you’ve said that Salkantay Trek requires no permits. The book you suggest though, “The Inca Trail Cusco & Machu Picchu”, states that you need a INC permit in order to pass through Soraypampa. I was curious on your take on this, and if you guys went through without needing one?

    Thanks! And your site is amazing!

    • Hey Derrick,

      Thanks for the kind words.

      We did the Salkantay with basic GPS info we found on Gaia. I haven’t personally seen the guidebook, and I list it because it seems to be the most recent text on hiking in the region. That said, from the information we obtained in Cusco prior to departure, there didn’t seem to be any permit requirements for Soraypampa. Indeed, we overnighted there and no one we spoke to asked us for anything, nor did we see any permit checking booth upon arrival or departure.



  13. Hi there! Thank you for the information. My partner and I will be hiking Salkantay without a guide during the last week of April. For the areas that we overnight in (Soraypampa or Salkantaypampa, Colpapampa, La Playa), do you have to book your campsite in advance? Or can you just show up and pitch a tent? Is there a cost?



    • Hi Elizabeth,

      To the best of my knowledge, independent hikers don’t have to book campsites in advance. Yes, there will be a cost at the places you mention. All the best on your hike!



      • Hi again! When you say there will be a cost in the places mentioned above, what do you mean? I assumed all dispersed camping on the trail was free. Do you mean if you pay to sleep in a hotel of some kind in those locations?

        Thank you!

  14. Hey there, me my boyfriend and my mom are planning to do this trek independently in August 2018. The thing that my mom is most worried about is the weather. Did you bring a heavy duty sleeping bag and if not, we’re you cold during the night? She only has a 0 degree Celcius sleeping bag so we’re wondering if she will be fine.
    Thanks a lot!!

    • Chances are for a couple of the higher altitude campsites on either side of the pass, your mom may need a slightly warmer bag. Something around -5 to -10°C should do the trick.

      All the best on your hike!

  15. Hi! Can you provide more info on where you camped/lodged each night? Is camping in augas calientes easy and safe? Did you stay at any unique hotels/hostels on the trail or did you just disperse camp each night?

    We are trying to coordinate our camping and lodging for our trek!

    Thank you so much!

    • Hi Kaley,

      I generally list an “average time” on these guides, rather than the time I actually took, as I tend to hike a bit quicker than most folks. In regards to our Salkantay itinerary: Day 1 – My friend and I started from Mollepata after lunch, and camped that night at Soraypampa in a designated camping area. We arranged to eat dinner that night with the family who ran the campsite; Day 2 – We hiked from Soraypampa to La Playa where we stayed with some locals; Day 3 – We reached Aguas Calientes at lunch time, and stayed the night at a hotel in town. Hope this helps. Best of luck with your hike.



      • Thanks, Cam! Did you just find a place the same day you arrived in aguas calientes or did you have it booked ahead of time?

        Also, on day 1 and day 2 did you just find those designated spots as you went along or did you already know where you needed to get to those nights?

        Trying to gauge how much planning I need to do ahead of time for camping.

        Thank you!

        • No worries. We didn’t book anything in advance and had no problems finding places. There are so few independent hikers, I don’t think it’s much of an issue. On day 2, we actually slept on a big open terrace over a shop. The family who ran the place were very nice, and they offered us a place to sleep, in addition to a dinner/breakfast combo.

  16. Thanks for the great information. I plan to hike the Salkantay independently in May. I would like to climb both Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu (over two days). Does it make sense to find lodging in Aguas Calientes or are there campsites closer to these two climbs?

    • You will need to obtain permits for both peaks. Huayna Picchu usually needs to be booked well in advance. The climbs are actually just steep hikes, and both can be done in less than an hour. Aguas Calientes is very close to Machu Picchu; you can walk there from town via a dirt road and a steep staircase.

      • Hi Cam, at the end of the Salkantay, do you have both options of ascending Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu?

        Are the best views at the top of those peaks?

        Is this entire hike worth doing if I cannot obtain permits in time for either peak?

        • Both peaks require permits. Huayna Picchu is the more popular of the two, so you would usually need to book that one further in advance. If you can’t get permits, I still think the hike is worth doing. The diversity of natural scenery is amazing, and it should still be possible to visit Machu Picchu at the end.

  17. Hi again, Cam.

    Just a couple more questions.

    How did you get from MP to Cusco? Train or bus? Where did you book your tickets?
    Also, did you make it to the Rainbow mountains? If so, how did you go about getting there? It sounds like you did it on the cheap, which I love and would like to follow suit.

    Thank you!

  18. Cam, Thanks for the excellent post. Plan to independent hike the trail in May. Question for you. I noticed on the Peru Rail site there are luggage restrictions on the Cusco – Aguas Calenties line; it says that you can take nothing more than a backpack. If that is true, then how to you get your all your gear back to Cusco. Any thoughts or pointers would be appreciated. Thank You, Chuck

    • Hey Chuck,

      Thanks for the kind words. My friend and I took the train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo, and then after grabbing an ice cream in town (there’s a really good place just up the street from the station), caught a collectivo taxi the rest of the way back to Cusco. Not too sure about the luggage restrictions; we just had our backpacks from the hike and there seemed to be no issues in regards to size. I should note that we did leave some of our extra gear for upcoming hikes at our hotel in Cusco during the Salkantay. Most of the hotels/hostels there offer luggage storage facilities. Hope this helps.

      Best of luck on your hike!



  19. hey Cam, amazing post, lot of useful info!
    well, i’m thinking about doing this trail first week of may, free & solo and no previous bookings… do you think is crazy? afordable?
    two more questions:
    1. i woudn’t like to take with me a tent to camp, so, is there enough “hostels” on the way to sleep in?
    2. you say there is lot of places to take water, but maybe is not really safe to drink it directly without any treatment… what do you reccomend to take?
    thanks in advance, and congrats again for a great post!

    • In answer to your questions: 1. The villages have places where you can sleep inside, but I don’t think some of the campsites do (not 100% sure about this point). I would recommend taking a tent if you are hiking independently; 2. Yes, you should take along some sort of water treatment, whether it be filter or chemical. Best of luck on your trip.



        • Thank you very much for your tips, Cam & Kaley!!
          I have one more question: I’m looking for maps, looks like there is not detailed ones… (do you know where to get in internet an accurate one?)
          My question is: where do the two tracks, Inca and Salkantay, join? I mean: if you choose the Salkantay, you go finally to Aguas Calientes and then you “climb” up to Machu Picchu, but if you come from Inca trail you cross IntiPunku (Sun Gate). The final section of Salkantay arrives to Sun Gate too, where you “join” Inca trail? thanks again!

          • I used the Gaia map I reference in the article. Both trails finish at Machu Picchu, however, the Salkantay Trek doesn’t go to the Sun Gate. Best of luck on your hike!

    • Sorry, I see you already provided this information. Thanks! I’ll probably be taking a bus from Lima so will look into bus options from there to Mollepata.

  20. I’d like to mention that as of March 13th 2018, the trail to the left of the river after Chaulley/Collpapampa is not passable and one must take the road if they wish to get to La Playa.

    I found out the hard way by hiking about 2 hours in and finding a massive, impassable landslide that had destroyed the path. I backtracked and took the road to La Playa (right side of the river) to find that there were even more landslides further up the trail that destroyed the path (left of the river). I spoke with some locals and they said that during December of 2017, landslides destroyed the path. The bridge to La Playa had also been destroyed.

    Just thought I’d mention it. To be clear, to hike the Salkantray Trek, you must take the road that is right of the river once you pass Chaulley and Collpapampa. You may want to update your post to inform future readers, as I used your post as a guide.

    • Calvin, Thank you for the update on the trail. We are going to hike the Santa Teresa in May. Do you have any maps or description of the road to from Collpapampa to La Playa? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Chuck

    • Calvin, Thanks for the update on the trail. Do you have additional details on the road from Ccolpapampa to La Playa. Any info would be appreciated. Thank You, Chuck

      • The road is actually very straightforward and easy to follow. As you leave Collpapampa, you are technically on the road already. It is wide and flat and follows the right side of the river. The original trail, which I mentioned has been washed away, was actually a little tricky to find. So you should easily be able to follow the road. It will take you all the way to La Playa and further on.

        • Hi Calvin,

          How was the stretch from La Playa to Aguas Calientes? Was Collpapampa > LP the only section of the trail that had landslides?

  21. What a great feed thank you!! If only i had this kind of info before my hike to Collpapampa, I was lost for over two hours! I regress it was still a pleasurable time and i wouldn’t be hiking if it were not a challenge. I must use this information for future hikes with family and friends.As part of our trip to the U.S we were thinking of exploring new trails, any ideas?

    Thanks for the helpful feed!

    Jack Djondric-Powell

  22. Hola!
    Great write-up on your trek. Thank you for sharing. I am set on doing the salkant ay trek solo, but haven’t been able to find any info on hammock camping. From your pictures, there appears to be plenty of trees to hang minus the extreme elevation of the pass (Which I would not be camping on).
    Any thoughts on hammock camping on this trail?

    Thanks, Kevin

    • Hey Kevin,

      Using a hammock would be fine during the latter stages of the hike, but it could be a bit tricky between Soraypampa and Colpapampa.

      If you could do that stretch in a day, you might be able to make it work.



      p.s. Thinking back, I’m not too sure there would be anywhere to hang at Soraypampa either. Perhaps you could strike a deal with one of the locals that offers accommodation there.

  23. Hi again Cam,

    Okay I’m going to be really high maintenance. If my group is going to start it’s trek on a Tuesday morning and arrive in Aguas Calientes by Friday evening (before dark), where should we plan to get to/camp each night? We all have tickets to enter MP on Saturday.

    Thank you so much! You’ve been amazing!

    • Hi Kaley,

      Due to the large quantity of messages I receive from folks essentially wanting me to help plan their hiking vacations, I began a trip consulting service a couple of years ago ( Detailed enquiries such as yours take a fair amount of time to put together, and I’d like to think my knowledge and experience are valuable. If you’re interested, by all means drop me a line at



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