When most people think of hiking to Machu Picchu, the first name that comes to mind is the Inca Trail. And justifiably so. For decades that classic trek was the sole focal point for anyone looking to arrive at the fabled ‘lost city’ on foot. However, as Machu Picchu’s fame increased, so did the quantity of people wanting to experience the Inca Trail. In the early 2000’s authorities installed a much needed quota on hiking numbers, a decision which led to the emergence of the Salkantay Trek on the world’s backpacking radar.
I hiked the Salkantay Trek in August, 2017. The information contained below is mostly geared towards hikers who choose to do the walk independently rather than with a guided group (Note: Since 2001 it is prohibited to hike the Inca Trail without a guide).
Ryan “Dirtmonger” Sylva descending from Salkantay Pass (4630m/15,190ft).
Distance: 57.2 miles ( 92 km)
Avg. Time: 5 days.
- That is the standard amount of time taken by guided groups . If you are fit, acclimatised and carrying a light pack, there are no real issues in doing the hike in three or four days if you feel like it.
Start: Mollepata
- As of 2017, virtually all organized groups start at Soraypampa, which cuts off some 12 miles/20 km from the overall distance mentioned above. We decided to begin our hike at the traditional trailhead of Mollepata, and hike from there to Soraypampa. From Mollepata you can either follow the dirt road or take a well marked trail (the signed junction is just a few minutes out of town) all the way to Soraypampa.
Finish: The summit of Machu Picchu mountain.
- The traditional end of the Salkantay Trek is the Machu Picchu archeological site. We decided to extend it a little by making the summit of Machu Picchu Peak (3061m / 10,042ft) our finishing point.
Yours truly and Ryan “Dirtmonger” Sylva on top of Machu Picchu Peak – finishing point of our Salkantay Trek.
Highest Point: Salkantay Pass 4630 m (15,190 ft)
Lowest Point: Hydroelectric Plant 1800 m (5906 ft)
Difficulty: Easy to moderate.
Transport:
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- Mollepata – Three hours by regular buses from Cusco. Cost 15 Peruvian Soles (about US$5). As of 2017, you can catch daily minibuses from near the junction of Arcopata and Avenida Apurimac. They usually leave around 7 to 8 am.
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- Machu Picchu – Returning to Cusco from the finish of the hike is either expensive or time consuming. The priciest, easiest and most comfortable way is to take the train from Aguas Calientes to Cusco (4 hrs). Alternatively you can catch the train to Ollantaytambo, then take a Collectivo minibus or taxi from there to Cusco (between 3 hrs and 4 hrs total). Finally, the cheapest and most time consuming way to return to Cusco from Machu Picchu is as follows: 1. Walk the 11 km back to the Hydroelectric dam along the railroad tracks; 2. From there take a minibus or collective taxi to the village of Santa Teresa; 3. Catch another bus back to Cusco. This three step journey can take the best part of an entire day depending on connections, and you may well find yourself overnighting in Santa Teresa; not such a bad thing as it does sport some soothing hot springs (Note: If you plan on taking the train, you should book well in advance).
The world’s most futile hitching attempt on the way to Aguas Calientes (photo from Ryan Sylva).
Season: Possible all year, though the dry season between May and October is ideal. During this period nights can be chilly (0°C is common), but days are generally clear.
Guidebook / Maps / Online Information:
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- Guidebook: Alexander Stewart’s The Inca Trail (2013) contains trekking notes and basic maps for the Salkantay Trek (as well as other hikes in the area).
- GPS: For GPS details see Salkantay Trek on the GaiaGPS website.
- Blogs by Independent Salkantay Hikers: Sayonarapushek.com, Kevinstravelblog.com, rediscoveringpassions.wordpress.com and last but not least, my hiking partner Ryan “Dirtmonger” Sylva’s personal account of our Salkantay Trek experience.
Permits & Fees: No permits are needed to hike the Salkantay Trek. However, you will need to purchase an entrance ticket to the Machu Picchu archeological site and Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu peaks. Independent hikers can organise these in advance through the official Peruvian Ministry of Culture website. Alternatively, if you are going with an organised group, the tour company may do it for you. It’s worth noting that as of 2017, you can also pick up entry tickets to Machu Picchu (but not the peaks) once you arrive in Aguas Calientes.
For a thorough overview of the ins and outs of purchasing Machu Picchu tickets, see Thrifty Nomads.
The view from Machu Picchu Peak overlooking the citadel and Huayna Picchu (Photo courtesy of Ryan Sylva)
Food: You have a few options: 1. Bring all your supplies from Cusco; 2. Purchase provisions and organise meals along the way at Soraypampa, Colpapampa and La Playa, or; 3. Do a combination of both. We went with the final option, and enjoyed a few wonderful home cooked meals during our journey. For those interested in taking the same approach, I’d recommend starting the trek with no more than two days food.
Water: Plenty of water available throughout the trek (we never carried more than 1.5 lt at a time), however, due the prevalence of livestock and human settlement it is recommended that all water should be treated.
Guided Vs Independent: More than 95% of hikers tackle the Salkantay Trek as part of a guided group. However, if you have the necessary gear (it’s also possible to rent equipment in Cusco) and a reasonable amount of backpacking experience, there are no issues with doing the hike independently. The trail is easy to follow throughout its course and as mentioned above, you can purchase food along the way (i.e. which translates to a lighter load).
DM descending the Quebrada Humantay.
How does the Salkantay differ from the Inca Trail? The primary differences are as follows: it’s longer, slightly more challenging, less crowded, boasts a greater variation of ecozones, but doesn’t have the multiple archeological sites that you can visit on the Inca Trail. It’s also cheaper, irrespective of whether you go with an organized group or independently; significantly so if you choose the later option. In short, they are different treks that both happen to end at the same spectacular destination.
Overview map of different trails to Machu Picchu (Terraquechuaperu.com)
Trekking Notes:
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- Overall Character: The Salkantay is perhaps most notable for its ecological diversity. It traverses picturesque valleys, alpine meadows, goes up and over a dramatic mountain pass and meanders its way through a lush subtropical rainforest.
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- The Pass: The high point both geographically as well as scenically is the 4630 m (15,190ft) Abra Salkantay. Upon reaching this spectacular pass, hikers are afforded jaw-dropping vistas of Mount Salkantay (6271 m), a peak that has long been considered sacred by the inhabitants of the Peruvian Andes.
Views from Salkantay Pass.
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- Transformation: From the pass, the trail descends more than 2000 meters (6562 ft) into cloud forest. The change in flora, as well as temperature is dramatic. Along the way there are various accommodation/camping options where it is possible to break up the descent (i.e. Huayracmachay, Collpapampa and Challway).
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- Ascend to Llactapata: Not long after leaving the friendly village of La Playa, the pathway ascends again via banana and coffee plantations (be sure to stop for a cup or two) to the recently rediscovered ruins of Llactapata. There is a campsite close to the archeological site with impressive views towards Machu Picchu.
- Along the Tracks: From Llactapata the trail goes steeply downhill to the hydroelectric plant. Soon after you pass the railway station where provisions can be purchased. From this point it is a flat and easy 11 km to the town of Aguas Calientes following the railway tracks.
- Ascend to Llactapata: Not long after leaving the friendly village of La Playa, the pathway ascends again via banana and coffee plantations (be sure to stop for a cup or two) to the recently rediscovered ruins of Llactapata. There is a campsite close to the archeological site with impressive views towards Machu Picchu.
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- Stairway to Inca Heaven: The final stage of the Salkantay is steep, short and includes hundreds of steps. Give yourself anywhere between 45 minutes and an hour and a half to hike from Aguas Calientes up to the entrance to the archeological site. From there it is another 30 minutes to an hour to reach the summit of Machu Picchu mountain.
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DM walking through a coffee plantation on the way to Llactapata.
- Stages: The Salkantay Trek is commonly broken down into the following five stages:
- Day 1: Mollepata to Soraypampa: 20 Km (12.4 miles);
- Day 2: Soraypampa to Collpapampa: 22 Km (13.7 miles);
- Day 3: Collpapampa to La Playa: 16 Km (9.9 miles) (**Update – March 13, 2018: According to report, trail between Collpapampa and La Playa is closed due to landslides. No information as to when it will be cleared; in the meantime take road instead. See comments below – Calvin Benson – for details).
- Day 4: La Playa to Aguas Calientes: 25 Km (15.5 miles) – via Llactapata;
- Day 5: Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu Peak: 9 Km (5.6 miles).
Ascending the steps to Machu Picchu Peak (photo courtesy of Ryan Sylva).
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- Stairway to Inca Heaven: The final stage of the Salkantay is steep, short and includes hundreds of steps. Give yourself anywhere between 45 minutes and an hour and a half to hike from Aguas Calientes up to the entrance to the archeological site. From there it is another 30 minutes to an hour to reach the summit of Machu Picchu mountain.
Final Thoughts:
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- Route Choices: There are a few different route options for the Salkantay Trek. I would suggest the following: 1. Start at Molletapa, rather than Sorayapampa; 2. Take the trail rather than the dirt road on the section between Colpapampa and La Playa; 3. Opt for the trail to Llactapata, rather than the dirt road to Santa Teresa. Yes, it is harder, but the payoff is a beautiful walk through coffee plantations and great views of Machu Picchu in the distance.
- Go Independent: By any criteria, the Salkantay is not a difficult trek. If you have the gear, are reasonably fit, well acclimatized and know how to follow a trail, I’d highly recommend going independently. It’s a lot cheaper, a bigger sense of accomplishment, more opportunities to interact with locals, and you gift yourself the element of freedom; the freedom to choose where you camp, what you eat, whom you hike with (if anyone), when you take a break, how fast or slow you walk, etc.
Yours truly at the end of the Inca Trail in 1996, and 21 years later at the end of the Salkantay Trek.
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My husband and I hiked the Salkantay Trek in February of this year. In many years of backpacking, we had never opted to go on a guided hike, but the complexity of transportation logistics and the lack of readily available topo maps led us to book a guided trek last-minute. On our hike we saw a few intrepid, independent hikers — my hats off to you and to them!
Though I was skeptical about going with a guide, I ultimately enjoyed it tremendously. We had local guides who opened the door for us to interact with other locals beyond what I believe I would have been able to do, even as a Spanish speaker; the food provided was unbelievably good; we got to sleep in a glass igloo the first night; and traveling for five days with others in our group had the benefit of letting us become more connected with fellow hikers than the more casual connections I’m used to making on the trail.
That said, there are plenty of trekking companies ready to take travelers’ money — and not all are reputable. We did our research and were ultimately happy with Salkantay Trekking Company (http://www.salkantaytrekking.com). We were able to reduce the trek price because we had already bought train tickets and permits for Machu Picchu, which brought the cost for 5 days including all food, transportation and lodging about $180.
Travelogue, including GPS track, at http://dearantler.com/askantler/hooves-on-the-ground-peru.
Hi Edith,
Thanks for the detailed message. It’s always good to have folks that have enjoyed different experiences chime in. I remember seeing those glass igloos you mentioned!
Saludos,
Cam
hi guys, i just read your blog after this comment…. how did you manage to get this amazing prize??? i wrote to Salkantay Trekking, and they didn’t allow me to do the same, and offered me a pack of $420, very far from your prize…. can you help me with this? thanks in advance!
Hello Cam! Thank you for this insightful post. I do hope I’ll get a chance to hike in Peruwian mountains once I’m done with Europe ?
Great post,
Did the Inca trail twenty years ago with a guided group. Although I’ve enjoyed the guided tour it was the beginning of many years of independent hikes all over the world. Great to see this alternative track, maybe I will go back one day.
Greets from Belgium, Bart
Must have been a great feeling getting back to Machu Picchu after all those years, particularly getting there under your own steam.
Thanks for sharing an independent approach to Machu Picchu and opening the door for me. I have put this on the list and look forward to some hiking in Peru.
Thanks for all the helpful information, thinking of making this trek without a guide next September. What about campsites along the trail? Do these need to be booked in advance? Thanks again.
Jason
Plenty of camping options along the way. No need to book in advance if you are hiking independently. All the best on your trip!
Cheers,
Cam
Hey Cam, thanks for the info. I read that the ticketing guidelines at Machu Picchu may have changed last July and you now have to enter with a guide, among other limitations. Was that your experience in August? Any issues there? Thanks again.
Jason
Hey Jason,
It wasn’t obligatory to have a guide at Machu Picchu last August. That said, you do need to organise your permits for the peaks and site beforehand. Be sure to bring a paper copy of your reservation/s to the site if you are going independently.
Cheers,
Cam
Hey Cam,
I’m just wondering how this trek stacks up against the Inca trail in your opinion? Did you find one more enjoyable then the other? Did one have better views then the other? Was one more challenging? Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Vaughn
Hey Vaughan,
They are different treks that both end up at the same spectacular destination. I can’t say that one is better than the other. I did the Inca Trail back in 1996. At that time it could still be done independently; these days it is obligatory to go with a guide/group and is quite expensive. The Salkantay can still be done without an agency if you so choose.
In regards to other differences, Inca Trail has some great archeological sites along the way, whereas the standout feature of the Salkantay (at least from my perspective) is the ecological diversity encountered during its course. Perhaps the Salkantay is slightly more challenging from a physical standpoint. The views are amazing on both hikes.
Cheers,
Cam
Thank you for such a quick reply! Your article has convinced me to hike the Salkantay trail sometime in the near future. I hope to follow a similar itnerary to you starting at Molletapa and finishing at one of the peaks. I’m unsure whether I would rather finish at the Machu Picchu peak or hike up to the busier Huayna Picchu peak. What made you guys choose the Machu Picchu peak over the Huayna Picchu?
Regards,
Vaughn
Hey Vaughan,
No worries. I had been up Huayna Picchu in 1996, so I thought it would be good to check out the view from the other peak this last time around.
Cheers,
Cam
Cam
Thank you for the great advice. I’m doing this trek independently with my son (26) in August. Can you tell me whether there are lodges/teahouses on the route as we do not want to carry food or camping equipment. Thank you.
Hi Andrew,
There are some lodges along the way, which depending on availability, you might be able to book in advance. I suspect they are mostly filled up with trekking agency groups.
In regards to food, as I mentioned in the article, you can purchase meals and/or pick up supplies at Soraypampa, Colpapampa and La Playa.
Regards,
Cam
Hi! Thank you for the great information. I will be doing the trek in March. You noted permits are not required, but I read in Alexander Stewart’s book that a permit needs to be purchased for the section from Soray Pampa to Lucmabamba. Did you have to by a permit for this checkpoint or bypass it?
Thanks!!
Hi Emily,
To the best of my knowledge you do not need a permit to hike any part of the Salkantay Trek, with the exception of the finish at Machu Picchu. Best of luck on your hike!
Cheers,
Cam
Hi Emily. Are you camping or planning to stay in lodges en route? I’ve been trying to work out accom other than carrying my own and would be grateful for post trip advice/tips.
Thanks
Hi Andrew,
I will be camping the whole time with three other people. I’ve read there can be lodging options along the route. I found a company that you can book through Airbnb that organizes accommodations for you along the trek. It seemed to have good lodging options and to be reliable, but more money than we wanted to spend.
Hey Emily, I am planning to do this trek within the next week and would also like to walk the same route as you mentioned, did you ever find out if extra permits are needed?
Any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks in advance!
Hey all,
This report and comment section is great, since I am also planning my trip (together with two others) in April! We actually plan on doing the hike ourselves and we were just not sure about water and food supply. But seems that there is plenty of chances to by things along the way, right?
I heard from someone who is currently there, that it is not allowed to go without a guide anymore??She apparently talked to different companies and they told her so. Has anyone information on this? I can’t seem to find anything about this in the web.
Best wishes, Barbara
Hi Barbara,
I’d take that information about not being able to do the Salkantay independently with a large grain of salt. As of the end of last year, it was definitely possible.
Regards,
Cam
Hello!
I know you’ve said that Salkantay Trek requires no permits. The book you suggest though, “The Inca Trail Cusco & Machu Picchu”, states that you need a INC permit in order to pass through Soraypampa. I was curious on your take on this, and if you guys went through without needing one?
Thanks! And your site is amazing!
Derrick
Hey Derrick,
Thanks for the kind words.
We did the Salkantay with basic GPS info we found on Gaia. I haven’t personally seen the guidebook, and I list it because it seems to be the most recent text on hiking in the region. That said, from the information we obtained in Cusco prior to departure, there didn’t seem to be any permit requirements for Soraypampa. Indeed, we overnighted there and no one we spoke to asked us for anything, nor did we see any permit checking booth upon arrival or departure.
Cheers,
Cam
Thanks! – I also read that and was wondering if permit is required
? Kathy
Hi there! Thank you for the information. My partner and I will be hiking Salkantay without a guide during the last week of April. For the areas that we overnight in (Soraypampa or Salkantaypampa, Colpapampa, La Playa), do you have to book your campsite in advance? Or can you just show up and pitch a tent? Is there a cost?
Thanks!
~Elizabeth
Hi Elizabeth,
To the best of my knowledge, independent hikers don’t have to book campsites in advance. Yes, there will be a cost at the places you mention. All the best on your hike!
Cheers,
Cam
Hi again! When you say there will be a cost in the places mentioned above, what do you mean? I assumed all dispersed camping on the trail was free. Do you mean if you pay to sleep in a hotel of some kind in those locations?
Thank you!
If you camp at the main sites or in the villages such as La Playa, there will generally be a small fee.
Hey there, me my boyfriend and my mom are planning to do this trek independently in August 2018. The thing that my mom is most worried about is the weather. Did you bring a heavy duty sleeping bag and if not, we’re you cold during the night? She only has a 0 degree Celcius sleeping bag so we’re wondering if she will be fine.
Thanks a lot!!
Chances are for a couple of the higher altitude campsites on either side of the pass, your mom may need a slightly warmer bag. Something around -5 to -10°C should do the trick.
All the best on your hike!
My daughter and I plan to do this trek in August as well. I am in excellent shape but have not done a lot of backpacking. My daughter however has and thinks I should have no problem.
Once I get there, are there tours we can purchase if I don’t feel I can do the trail over 5 days without a guide?
Hi! Can you provide more info on where you camped/lodged each night? Is camping in augas calientes easy and safe? Did you stay at any unique hotels/hostels on the trail or did you just disperse camp each night?
We are trying to coordinate our camping and lodging for our trek!
Thank you so much!
Hi Kaley,
I generally list an “average time” on these guides, rather than the time I actually took, as I tend to hike a bit quicker than most folks. In regards to our Salkantay itinerary: Day 1 – My friend and I started from Mollepata after lunch, and camped that night at Soraypampa in a designated camping area. We arranged to eat dinner that night with the family who ran the campsite; Day 2 – We hiked from Soraypampa to La Playa where we stayed with some locals; Day 3 – We reached Aguas Calientes at lunch time, and stayed the night at a hotel in town. Hope this helps. Best of luck with your hike.
Cheers,
Cam
Thanks, Cam! Did you just find a place the same day you arrived in aguas calientes or did you have it booked ahead of time?
Also, on day 1 and day 2 did you just find those designated spots as you went along or did you already know where you needed to get to those nights?
Trying to gauge how much planning I need to do ahead of time for camping.
Thank you!
No worries. We didn’t book anything in advance and had no problems finding places. There are so few independent hikers, I don’t think it’s much of an issue. On day 2, we actually slept on a big open terrace over a shop. The family who ran the place were very nice, and they offered us a place to sleep, in addition to a dinner/breakfast combo.
Wonderful! How did you find them?
Also, do you know anything about those places that are giant glass domes or the “hotels” that are on the suspended on the cliff sides? Are those along the Salkantay?
You’re awesome. Thank you so much for your help!
Kaley
It was late in the day when we arrived in the village of La Playa, and we just asked the folks in the shop about accommodation. I saw the glass domes you mention at Soraypampa, but I don’t know much about them. All the best on your trip!
These glass domes are on AirBnb! They look pretty neat, but not the cheapest!
Derrick
Thanks, Derrick! What do I search for to find them on Airbnb? Any chance you have the link?
Thank you!
Yup, Skylodge Adventure Suites!
https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/2177913?location=Skylodge%20Adventure%20Suites%2C%20Cusco%2C%20Peru
Hi Cam, I’m organizing this trek for september. You say “Day 2 – We hiked from Soraypampa to La Playa” – Really? Is it doable?
Soraypampa (3.880 m) to Salkantay Pass (4.630 m) should be around 3h30m-4h00m, uphill for 7 km.
Salkantay Pass (4.630 m) to La Playa 82.060 m) should be around 6h-7h, downhill for 30 km.
Hi Alex,
Those times are general estimates. For hikers that are very fit, acclimatised and experienced, it is obviously possible to cover more ground if you choose to do so. That doesn’t mean I am recommending such a schedule to others; I only mentioned it because Kayley asked specifically where I camped. As I said in the post, the average time to do the trek is five days, and everyone should walk at their own pace.
All the best for your September hike!
Cheers,
Cam
I still didn’t thank you for your post and comments!
I normally can hike that long in the Alps, but never tried over 3.300 meters. My only doubt is about the acclimatisation. Before the Salkantay trek, I’m doing 3 days in Arequipa and the Colca Valley (trekking 1.5 days), 2 days in Puno and the Titicaca Lake, 2 days in Cusco. Do you think it’s enough to get acclimatised, according to your experience? I’m 36, in excellent health conditions and quite fit, I normally train 3-4 times a week (both cardio and strength) and can run for 10-20 km (10 km 45 mins).
Bye
Hi Alex,
There is often a big discrepancy between the way different people react to hiking at high altitude, so it is difficult for me to give you the definitive answer you are looking for. That said, it sounds like you will be well acclimatised by the time you start the Salkantay. Here is an article I wrote on the subject some years ago which may be of help: https://www.thehikinglife.com/2015/08/tips-for-high-altitude-hiking-2/
The only way to find out what is the right pace for you is your own experiences. The one thing I would suggest is to err on the side of caution at first, and don’t try to do too much too soon. Listen to your body, and don’t be too wedded to a preset schedule.
Cheers,
Cam
Thanks for the great information. I plan to hike the Salkantay independently in May. I would like to climb both Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu (over two days). Does it make sense to find lodging in Aguas Calientes or are there campsites closer to these two climbs?
You will need to obtain permits for both peaks. Huayna Picchu usually needs to be booked well in advance. The climbs are actually just steep hikes, and both can be done in less than an hour. Aguas Calientes is very close to Machu Picchu; you can walk there from town via a dirt road and a steep staircase.
Hi Cam, at the end of the Salkantay, do you have both options of ascending Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu?
Are the best views at the top of those peaks?
Is this entire hike worth doing if I cannot obtain permits in time for either peak?
Both peaks require permits. Huayna Picchu is the more popular of the two, so you would usually need to book that one further in advance. If you can’t get permits, I still think the hike is worth doing. The diversity of natural scenery is amazing, and it should still be possible to visit Machu Picchu at the end.
Hi again, Cam.
Just a couple more questions.
How did you get from MP to Cusco? Train or bus? Where did you book your tickets?
Also, did you make it to the Rainbow mountains? If so, how did you go about getting there? It sounds like you did it on the cheap, which I love and would like to follow suit.
Thank you!
In answer to your questions: 1-3. A combination of train and bus. Train to Ollantaytambo, then collectivo minibus from there back to Cusco. We booked the train tickets online; 4. We hiked the Ausangate circuit close by to Rainbow mountain, but didn’t visit Rainbow mountain itself (https://www.thehikinglife.com/2017/10/ausangate-circuit-independent-hikers-guide/).
Cam, Thanks for the excellent post. Plan to independent hike the trail in May. Question for you. I noticed on the Peru Rail site there are luggage restrictions on the Cusco – Aguas Calenties line; it says that you can take nothing more than a backpack. If that is true, then how to you get your all your gear back to Cusco. Any thoughts or pointers would be appreciated. Thank You, Chuck
Hey Chuck,
Thanks for the kind words. My friend and I took the train from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo, and then after grabbing an ice cream in town (there’s a really good place just up the street from the station), caught a collectivo taxi the rest of the way back to Cusco. Not too sure about the luggage restrictions; we just had our backpacks from the hike and there seemed to be no issues in regards to size. I should note that we did leave some of our extra gear for upcoming hikes at our hotel in Cusco during the Salkantay. Most of the hotels/hostels there offer luggage storage facilities. Hope this helps.
Best of luck on your hike!
Cheers,
Cam
hey Cam, amazing post, lot of useful info!
well, i’m thinking about doing this trail first week of may, free & solo and no previous bookings… do you think is crazy? afordable?
two more questions:
1. i woudn’t like to take with me a tent to camp, so, is there enough “hostels” on the way to sleep in?
2. you say there is lot of places to take water, but maybe is not really safe to drink it directly without any treatment… what do you reccomend to take?
thanks in advance, and congrats again for a great post!
In answer to your questions: 1. The villages have places where you can sleep inside, but I don’t think some of the campsites do (not 100% sure about this point). I would recommend taking a tent if you are hiking independently; 2. Yes, you should take along some sort of water treatment, whether it be filter or chemical. Best of luck on your trip.
Cheers,
Cam
I would recommend the Sawyer Mini for filtering water. It always works for me. I’ve been using it for years.
Thank you very much for your tips, Cam & Kaley!!
I have one more question: I’m looking for maps, looks like there is not detailed ones… (do you know where to get in internet an accurate one?)
My question is: where do the two tracks, Inca and Salkantay, join? I mean: if you choose the Salkantay, you go finally to Aguas Calientes and then you “climb” up to Machu Picchu, but if you come from Inca trail you cross IntiPunku (Sun Gate). The final section of Salkantay arrives to Sun Gate too, where you “join” Inca trail? thanks again!
I used the Gaia map I reference in the article. Both trails finish at Machu Picchu, however, the Salkantay Trek doesn’t go to the Sun Gate. Best of luck on your hike!
The information you have provided is so helpful. Thank you! Do you mind telling me how you got to Mollepata?
Sorry, I see you already provided this information. Thanks! I’ll probably be taking a bus from Lima so will look into bus options from there to Mollepata.
Cam, Do recall how long it took you to hike from Mollepata to Soraypampa? Thanks, CJ
Around four or five hours.
I’d like to mention that as of March 13th 2018, the trail to the left of the river after Chaulley/Collpapampa is not passable and one must take the road if they wish to get to La Playa.
I found out the hard way by hiking about 2 hours in and finding a massive, impassable landslide that had destroyed the path. I backtracked and took the road to La Playa (right side of the river) to find that there were even more landslides further up the trail that destroyed the path (left of the river). I spoke with some locals and they said that during December of 2017, landslides destroyed the path. The bridge to La Playa had also been destroyed.
Just thought I’d mention it. To be clear, to hike the Salkantray Trek, you must take the road that is right of the river once you pass Chaulley and Collpapampa. You may want to update your post to inform future readers, as I used your post as a guide.
Thanks for taking the time to send that through. I updated the post.
Cheers,
Cam
YES! Thank you so MUCH! Great for you to pass this on -MUCH Appreciated!!
Kathy
Thank you for the update Calvin and Cam! very useful.
Calvin, Thank you for the update on the trail. We are going to hike the Santa Teresa in May. Do you have any maps or description of the road to from Collpapampa to La Playa? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, Chuck
Calvin, Thanks for the update on the trail. Do you have additional details on the road from Ccolpapampa to La Playa. Any info would be appreciated. Thank You, Chuck
The road is actually very straightforward and easy to follow. As you leave Collpapampa, you are technically on the road already. It is wide and flat and follows the right side of the river. The original trail, which I mentioned has been washed away, was actually a little tricky to find. So you should easily be able to follow the road. It will take you all the way to La Playa and further on.
Hi Calvin,
How was the stretch from La Playa to Aguas Calientes? Was Collpapampa > LP the only section of the trail that had landslides?
Hi Calvin (or anyone who has the info!),
Do you know approximately how many kilometers or how long it took from Collpampa to La Playa using the road? I am planning to do the trek solo and trying to plan my route, but all the tour companies are telling me I should take a bus and the road isn’t pleasant so I can’t figure out how far it is. Thanks!
UPDATE: here Danilovic, live from Salkantay trek, alone-free&wild! this trail Chaullay to La Playa is just REOPENED, i just crossed it. They told me, they opened it only 10 days ago. Still is easy to see those landslides: I must say that, in some places, they made only few footprints to walk across the landslides, so it is a bit dangerous… but is possible to cross. In few days i will write my personal experience in this amazing trek! ?
Hey Danilovic – my husband and I hiked half of the Salkantay trek after joining from Choquequirao independently (I’m currently writing a blog post about our experience :)) and I think we must have hiked around about the same time (from my calculations we were hiking between Chaullay-La Playa on 30 April 2018).. from where I was across the river the hiking trail looked pretty landslidey! I wonder whether anyone has more up-to-date information/photographs of that part, for everyone’s benefit?
What a great feed thank you!! If only i had this kind of info before my hike to Collpapampa, I was lost for over two hours! I regress it was still a pleasurable time and i wouldn’t be hiking if it were not a challenge. I must use this information for future hikes with family and friends.As part of our trip to the U.S we were thinking of exploring new trails, any ideas?
Thanks for the helpful feed!
Jack Djondric-Powell
Hola!
Great write-up on your trek. Thank you for sharing. I am set on doing the salkant ay trek solo, but haven’t been able to find any info on hammock camping. From your pictures, there appears to be plenty of trees to hang minus the extreme elevation of the pass (Which I would not be camping on).
Any thoughts on hammock camping on this trail?
Thanks, Kevin
Hey Kevin,
Using a hammock would be fine during the latter stages of the hike, but it could be a bit tricky between Soraypampa and Colpapampa.
If you could do that stretch in a day, you might be able to make it work.
Cheers,
Cam
p.s. Thinking back, I’m not too sure there would be anywhere to hang at Soraypampa either. Perhaps you could strike a deal with one of the locals that offers accommodation there.
Hi again Cam,
Okay I’m going to be really high maintenance. If my group is going to start it’s trek on a Tuesday morning and arrive in Aguas Calientes by Friday evening (before dark), where should we plan to get to/camp each night? We all have tickets to enter MP on Saturday.
Thank you so much! You’ve been amazing!
Hi Kaley,
Due to the large quantity of messages I receive from folks essentially wanting me to help plan their hiking vacations, I began a trip consulting service a couple of years ago (https://www.thehikinglife.com/trip-consulting/). Detailed enquiries such as yours take a fair amount of time to put together, and I’d like to think my knowledge and experience are valuable. If you’re interested, by all means drop me a line at thehikinglife@gmail.com.
Cheers,
Cam
Hi Cam,
Thanks for all the info, super helpful. When you say “carrying a light pack” how light are we taking? What would you recommend to take and/or leave behind to lighten the load. I’m gearing up to do the Salkantay in the next couple weeks and would like to make sure I can do it on 3/4 days.
Cheers,
C
For the Salkantay Trek, where you don’t need to carry more than a day or two’s food, somewhere in the neighbourhood of 4 to 7 kg total weight.
Hi Cam,
Are there lakes to view along the Salktantay? If we started at Soraypampa rather than Mollepata would we miss anything spectacular?
Thank you!
Humantay lake is beautiful. There are some nice valley views on the path between Mollepata and Soraypampa, but that section isn’t as impressive as the following stages.
Thanks for all the great info! Just completed our salkantay trek without a guide. Well, this post was our guide. I think the thing most people should be aware of is that this hike is totally accessible. If you show up for the combi for Mollepata with a backpack, the driver knows where you’re going. The towns along the way know what you’re doing. Everyone is making changes to accommodate the tourist industry. There is really no need to worry. Also, they are charging 7-10 sols for campsites and, I guess what would be an entrance fee. We paid as soon as we arrived in Mollepata. And, have no fear, if you’re overwhelmed there are plenty of combis along the road from collpapampa to santa teresa where you can bail out. Thanks again for the info!
Hi. Thanks. Really useful. My Son and I are doing it in August. We really don’t want to take tents but we also want to go independently. Is there anyway that we could stay at hostels or tea houses along the route for the three or four nights?
Thanks for the amazing post! I’m going with a few friends in a week and this article has been one of the main sources of info we’ve used to plan the hike (we are doing it independently). One question though…I’ve read several articles that state the train back to Cusco has a very small luggage allowance. Do trekkers usually take their bags on? If not, what is the best way to get back to Cusco? Also, I would love suggestions on where to store our packs the day of exploring Machu Picchu.
Oh, and last question: for those who’ve done the trail independently, how heavy were your packs? I’m worried about it being too much on the day we hike over the pass. That being said, I’m also from Colorado and have done quite a few 14,000ft peaks with heavy packs, so I probably can handle slightly more than the average person.
Thanks again!
Hi Ana,
We took out packs on the train and had no issues. That said both our packs were quite small. I can’t speak for other trekkers.
On the day we headed up to Machu Picchu, we stored our bags at the hotel we stayed at in Aguas Calientes. We then picked them up again in the early afternoon before catching the train.
Here’s a gear list for a trek I did in Bolivia soon after the Salkantay. My gear was quite similar for both hikes (the weight was slightly less for the Salkantay): https://www.thehikinglife.com/2017/11/gear-list-cordillera-real-traverse/
All the best on your hike.
Cheers,
Cam
UPDATE:
Path to the left between Collcapampa and Playa is again through. I did it few days ago 😉
We are in Cusco. Question for you, day 1 did you go through Marqocasa? The guy at speedy Gonzalez said that you hike through Cruzpata? Thanks
No, Cruzpata no. Look in and use app “maps.me”, there is right map of the trek, according to which I went ?
Does anyone have a solid recommendation on vaccines? I’ve read conflicting recommendations. Some sites say if your hiking to Machu via the Inca, you don’t need Yellow Fever, etc., but then others say you need them. I know this trek spends some time in the jungle, so assuming its better to get them all?
Thanks!
Hi there
I wonder if someone could help me? I am planning on doing Salkantay to Machu Picchu early August. I am very keen to go solo. Although the igloo accommodation looks exquisite, I am excited to “rough” and take the challenge of accomplishing this without a guide. I am not an experienced hiker and would like to know how easy the trails are to follow. Are they well marked? Can you see the paths? Would it be handy to travel with a Garmin (GPS tracker)? Also, does anyone know where the best place to rent equipment is? Many thanks
Linds
Hi Linds,
My boyfriend and I just did Salkantay solo at the end of April. Here’s some stuff that I learned:
– gear rental: I rented a sleeping bag and backpack and bought rain pants from a place that I think was just called Salkantay Trekking (it had Salkantay in the name) on Calle Suecia in Cusco. The street’s kind of behind and to the NW of the Plaza Mayor. Their gear was great and way less expensive than any other place; you pay a ~100 soles deposit and the rest of the stuff was like 10 soles a day, may have even been cheaper.
– Once you get on the trails, they’re very easy to follow. It’s pretty much one main route from the trailhead around Mollepata to Aguas Calientes. For detailed trail writeups, get the recommended book mentioned in this post by Alexander Stewart.
– A note on that book: I discovered that those hiking time estimates are either optimistic or for people who get out and do trail hiking A LOT. I’m an average in-shape person — I exercise regularly but hadn’t done a ton of multi-day hiking before (like, one trip), and I particularly have trouble with my knees on descents which slows me down. But even the ascents (which I don’t have trouble with) were WAY faster estimates than we did. I recommend hitching a ride from Mollepata to like halfway to Soray Pampa… that will get you a good day. We camped at Salkantay Pampa and it was lovely, 10 soles. Day two is the roughest with a lot of descent. Note that on day 4, the hiking time from La Playa to Llactapata is around 3.5 hours, not 2 like the townspeople will tell you.
I don’t think a GPS is necessary on the hike — what with all of the other groups going out and the straightforward nature of the trail, it’s pretty much impossible to get lost.
Hi Elizabeth
Thank you for your in depth reply, much appreciated. Going on your experience and advice, I think I shall attempt this solo! ?
I can Always change my mind I guess.
Great, I will get the book and get planning! So exciting.
Thank you!
Linds
Hi. Your reply has been the most helpful to me as a novice independent traveller. Please could I ask more! The fitness side is ok for my son and I but not the logistics. We desperately want to do this trek independently but have only done treks where tea rooms/hostels were available en route previously. We have never camped, have no tent, never cooked our own food etc. Question is, if there are no hostels/tea rooms just how difficult would it be for us to carry a tent/food and do it ourselves. Our only alternative seems to be going on a guided four day trip which will be around $250-300 each and probs not as much fun. Thanks.
Hi Andrew!
Glad some of my experience can be helpful. So, my first question is why do you want to do this trek solo? If the reasons are financial, and you currently have no gear, you will probably (most likely) spend more money getting all of your gear together than you would spend by going with a group. If you guys like trekking and you plan to do more of this in the future, it pays to buy your own gear, and to invest in good quality tents/sleeping bags/cookware — it’s possible to get this stuff on discount (REI garage sales and eBay all the way!) but even still I would be very impressed if you got *everything* for the cost of both of you going with a group.
If you’re planning on renting all gear: based on our experience, I would be hesitant to again count on getting *everything* from local Cusco shops. Going Salkantay solo is comparatively uncommon and most of the gear shops do not cater to DIY hikers. So you can definitely get some good gear but it takes time. (Also one of you should be able to speak Spanish.) It took us the better part of a full day in Cusco just to get a good deal for my backpack and sleeping bag and then to arrange transportation to Mollepata, so if you don’t want to drive yourselves crazy I would arrange several days in Cusco to get your rental gear together. The shop that we eventually settled on was the only one that even had a backpack that was relatively large enough — most of them rent bags that are more like day packs. My boyfriend owns an enormous Osprey (I think it’s 100L?) pack and took around 65% of our gear in that — if we’d had to rent both of our packs, we wouldn’t have had enough space.
On the experience side: if you guys want to do this solo I would definitely recommend doing another multi-day trek before you head down to Salkantay so that you have an idea of what it’s like to cook your own food, set up, break down, etc. My bf was an outdoor educator for 10 years and I speak Spanish so we made a good team — we would have survived if we lacked both of those things, but I think the trip would have been way more stressful. A way to counteract that would be to plan more time on the hike.
There are definitely places to stop and camp along the way. Night one: Soraypampa is basically a little village that exists for hikers. You can camp there/possibly arrange food. Night two: Collepampa is the same setup. Night three: same with La Playa. Or you could hop on one of the busses with the tour groups and spend the night at Santa Theresa if you want to skip Llactapata on Day 4. If you’re going DIY though I would definitely bring your own food and tent/tarp as a backup.
Another note on the trip: if we were to do this again, I would add another day at the end. (So trek for 5 days and do Macchu Pichu on the 6th.) I would keep Days 1-3 as recommended in the guide book. On day 3 (we did this), we kept pace with the trekking groups and hopped on a bus to go to the hot springs at Santa Theresa. Then we arranged a ride back in the evening to La Playa.
Day 4 was actually pretty brutal for me because my arches had collapsed by midday, and the final trek from Hidroelectrica to Aguas Calientes — which is literally the easiest part of the trek (and super pretty) was absolute agony for me. Like, I was weeping from pain for the last 6 miles! (Should have taken the train.) What I would have done if we’d known:
End of Day 3, get dropped off at the trailhead to Llactapata coming back from the hotsprings. This town is called Lucmabamba and it’s actually a collection of tiny coffee farms/hostels all the way up the mountain towards Llactapata. All of them look incredibly inviting and it doesn’t look like a lot of trekking outfits spend the night there so I think you’d be good arranging lodging the day or evening of.
Day 4: hike to Llactapata, get there midday, and spend the rest of the day/night at another lodge that is kind of on the other side of the trail past Llactapata. (I forget the name.) There are clearings, beautiful wooden houses where it looked like you could stay, and seemed like you could buy food there too. Spend the rest of the day lazing.
Day 5: Continue on down the mountain and make your way to Aguas Calientes.
I think you can do this DIY, and the benefit of it is not a lot of guided tours take the above itinerary. Most do not go to Llactapata. You will run into/be walking alongside a *lot* of people until you get to this part of the trek. However, I would recommend buying some major gear before you head down (at least one pack, tent, clothes, cookware at least) and getting in another multi-day trek first.
I hope this helps!
Thank you v v much for the time and effort you have put into your response. All the info will be really useful. I think that you have convinced me to go with a group but to try and keep it small and as authentic as possible.
Thank you again.
Your post is very helpful for me in a similar situation (actually worse since I don’t have any companion).
After Elizabeth’s response above I more unsure on what to do…
My situation: No companion, no experience with overnight trekking; just guided 2-3 day tours in Thailand, Philippines with village homestays. I do not own a tent or sleeping bag and don’t intend to buy one (just too much gear for the rest of travel). Thus entirely solo trek might not be advisable.
Considerations against guided tours: Cost, less interaction with local, too much talking.
My guide book indicates that hiring a donkey plus driver is 80-100S/d. Would that be an alternative to a guided tour and would he be able to help me? Would I be able to sleep in hostels, homestays, … all along the way?
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Marcus
Hi Marcus,
I don’t know anything about hiring a donkey and driver so can’t comment on that approach to Salkantay. I do want to say this about Salkantay: it is GORGEOUS! It was one of the most amazing things I’ve done in my life. It’s totally worth it. However, no one is going to be avoiding crowds on this route. You’re going to be running into them or keeping pace with them for most of the days of your trek. I also don’t know if there’s necessarily more or less interaction with “locals” based on whether you go with a group or DIY. Guides are also locals and can tell you a lot about the area and introduce you to people if you don’t speak Spanish. The level of your interaction with other people mostly depends on you and how many conversations you want to strike up. The homestay/donkey experience definitely sounds cool but more than likely you’re going to be keeping pace with dozens of other trekkers for most of the route regardless of your travel method. (The only place other trekkers really seemed to thin out was through Lucmabamba/Llactapata.)
~Elizabeth
Thanks a lot Elizabeth!
Actually I was not sure if I go to Southern Peru at all due to all the crowds. Sometimes the second best sights are actually more worth it because they are far less crowded. Your description does sound good!
Happy travels!
Anyone who’s gone recently, how has the weather/temps been??
Thanks!
Hi Cam,
is it relatively easy to find food at every campsite or you can get something just at Soraypampa, Collpapampa and La Playa? I mean simple dishes such as boiled/scrambled eggs, some meat, bread, milk, beans, quinoa, veggies and fruits.
Thanks, Alessandro
Hi Alessandro,
We got meals at all the places you mentioned – Soraypampa (dinner day 1), Collpapampa (lunch Day 2) and La Playa (dinner day 2/breakfast day 3).
Cheers,
Cam
My wife and I would like to do this trek in July/August preferably independently. Can you recommend somewhere to hire tent and or sleeping bag?
We did Annapurna in April but sent our sleeping bags and other gear home after ?
Much prefer to do these things independently to both save money and generally go at our own pace.
Allan
Hello!
I’m going to do the Salkantay track independently in July. But I did not want to take a tent. Are there simple and cheap places to stay on the way (local houses, for example)?
Hi Cam,
I have two more questions:
1- I will go to Peru on September and, besides one pair of trekking sandals, I will take with me one single pair of shoes. What do you suggest between Goretex low trekking shoes and Goretex mid trekking boots? I will visit both cities and towns (Lima, Paracas, Nasca, Arequipa, Puno and Titicaca, Cusco and Sacred Valley) and will do a couple of treks (Colca Valley and Salkantay). Is it OK to do the Salkantay in low trekking shoes?
2- I will do the Salkantay trek solo, without any organized tour. Will it be possible to recharge devices during the trek (phone, camera, etc.)?
Thanks,
Alessandro
In answer to your questions: 1. Yes, low trekking shoes are fine; 2. It depends on where you stay. You definitely can in La Playa and Collpapampa.
This is really useful information! Thanks so much for posting your advice/experiences!
I have a question about the map, or the lack of maps. Am I overestimating the wilderness aspect? The Gaia-map you linked to, is it really sufficient for the trek?
Not worried about the trek, used to being outside.
Finn
It is a very well trodden path. The Gaia map should suffice. The basic map in the Stewart guidebook or even the old Lonely Planet “Trekking in the Central Andes” could also help.
Hi Cam,
I did the Salkantay Trek in August 2017 as well. I was part of guided group, and we started at Soraypampa, but I didn’t feel like I missed out not doing it independently.
I do think in a few years time I would like to do the trek again, but next time will do it independently.
Ben
Cam, I’ll be taking Salkantay unguided with 65L pack. Can you confirm from your most recent experience the likelihood park officials deny bag entry? And the presence of lockers/storage nearby entrance if bag denied? As for trekking poles, do you recall their making an exception if ascending MP Mountain? Thank you
I’m sorry but I can’t help on this one. We stayed in Aguas Calientes before heading up to MP at dawn the following morning. We left our packs at the hotel. Neither my friend or myself were using trekking poles.
Hi. Just completed it in August. You can leave your pack with the guys in the bottom hut before you ascend to MP main entrance. The hut is like a check point at the very bottom right hand side bridge. To the right of the hit is a cafe, they will also take your pack and hold it until you descend if you discretely ask them. Both charge an unofficial 5 Soles (£1.25). I also climbed MP Mountain (don’t underestimate it, 1.5 hours up, 1 hour down) but did not see any poles at all. Kind Regards.
Andrew, thank you for your detailed and timely answer. Most helpful!
You can bring poles up as far as the bag check (I had to check my own photos to be sure…yep I had em) but not past that point. I think the authorities will make an exception for the physically challenged or elderly…so if you could convince them you’re an infirm long distance trekker you might get in with a pole. ? Good luck!
Thanks, Brian!
Hello!
Thank you for all your information. My goal is to hike this trail in May by myself. I was wondering how many other hikers or groups did you see during your 4 day hike?
We saw a bunch of groups at Sorayapampa, and then a handful after that. In regards to independent hikers, I’d say they represented roughly five percent of the total folks we saw hiking the Salkantay trek.
All the best on your trip!
Thank you Cam for this website! I did this hike unguided in August of 2018 with my two boys and their girlfriends, and I read and reread this site before we left. Hardest, yet most rewarding thing I’ve ever done in my life. I’m 64 years old with an artificial hip.
I’d say 95% of the trekkers were guided. It gave me a lot of satisfaction to be carrying a fully loaded pack while constantly seeing much younger people with their day packs. ?
Campsites are fairly obvious. Take the altitude medicine. Chew the coca leaves! The app, maps.me allowed us to have an offline map that REALLY helped. I wish I had brought little souvenirs to hand out to the amazing people that helped us along the way!
I’ve been following this thread for a few months as I plan to hike this trail alone next September. Thanks for the tips about the app and other comments. I can hardly wait!
Good for you Kimberly! I really wish my Spanish was better when I did the trek. Expect rain, usually late in the day and at night! Jerky and Snickers were soooo good on the trail, and I’m not much of a candy bar guy. You can buy Gatorade along the way too, which are delicious in the middle of a long day’s hike. If you bring cash from the US to exchange in Peru, make sure the bills are pristine, no folds or tears, they won’t take them. Have fun!
Those are great tips, thanks! This trek will be the first thing I do when I get to South America, so I will bring lots of Snickers from home. ? My Spanish isn’t great, but generally enough to get by. I’m very excited!
Hi! I’m in Lima right now and headed to Cusco in the next few days. I am going to do the 4 day trek but am trying to figure out whether to do it independently or with a guide. How safe is the trail? I have a lot of backpacking experience but speak minimal Spanish and am a young female traveling alone. Additionally, I do not have a lot of experience with elevations quite that high. Otherwise I have all the gear and wouldn’t hesitate to do this alone in the states. Any thoughts?
Wow! Congrats to you Caroline. The Salkantay trail is safe enough to travel alone… We didn’t see any solo backpackers when we did it. 95% of the trekkers are guided and there are quite a few of them. One option would be to stay relatively close to a group, they can travel fairly fast since the trekkers only carry daypacks (horses and guides carry for them) vs your full backpack. Most of the places we slept at night, there were also the guided groups.
Elevation. Definitely take a few days in Cusco to acclimate. If you can, I would suggest you get altitude medicine in one of the many pharmacies in Lima or Cusco. Also, definitely get a supply of coca leaves and chew them while trekking!
Language barrier shouldn’t be too bad as long as you can ask for directions and ask how much. The locals on the trail were soooo nice, you’ll see! ?
Let me know how it goes for you please!
Sorry for the delayed reply. I ended up deciding to do the trek with a group and I was nervous (mostly of the elevation and how to figure out transportation) and found a good deal. However, you’re totally right that the trail is totally doable independently, even as a solo hiker. There are plenty of people and resources along the way. I found this to be very different than the backpacking I was used to in the PNW. Overall, I had a great time with the group I chose and met some really cool people. However, I would definitely do it solo if I were to do it again.
Caroline, congrats on completing this trek. It’s definitely different then our PNW! If you have details of your trek written somewhere on social media, I’d love to read!
Hey, great blog!
So I’d just like to double check, I only need the 2 permits to be able to finish this trek? (Machu piccu mountain and huayna piccu)? Are these permits 100% necessary to complete the full salkantay hike?
Thank you
Cheers
Hi Jacob. We didn’t do Huayna Picchu (but in hindsite, I wish I had), so I’m not sure about a permit for that area, although I imagine you do. Machu Picchu you definitely need a permit, and be prepared to stand in line once you get there, to get in. The end of our Salkantay trek was at Aguas Calientes. From there we took a bus up to Machu Picchu. We’d already hiked around 60 miles to get there so we were quite happy to take the bus. It’s a steep ass hike from the town to Machu Picchu!
Awesome man thanks for the reply!
I’m going to crush this trek in a couple weeks, as you mentioned it’s basically just a free for all with no permits needed along the way? Only some camp fees in the villages to camp? Also, when it comes to water, is there fresh water in these villages do you know?
Thanks again
Cheers
Yes, you will be charged a small fee to camp in the villages/designated areas. No issues with obtaining water.
Hi, where could I read about your experience? I’m also going in the rainy season and I’m a little bit afraid
Hi,
I think I’ve red this blog 5 times already – great info!
I’m planning on doing this next year first and then do the Ausangate and had just a handful of question. Didn’t know you can’t go into MP with your pack but read you left your gear in Agua Calientes. Did you have to reserve in advanced (how far in advanced) for a place to stay there? Also, last day you reach MP, did you go back to Cusco that same day? Was wondering time wise if you can hike up there from Agua Calientes, hike Machu Pichu peak, do the ruins and head back to Cusco.
Thanks!!
Cheers
Hi Claudio,
In answer to your questions: 1. We didn’t reserve a place in Aguas Calientes but were able to find a room without much difficulty upon arrival; 2. Yes, after visiting Machu Picchu from early morning until lunch time, we headed back to Cusco on the train that same afternoon. Chances are you will need to book the train in advance.
Best of luck on your journey!
Cam
Awesome!!! Thanks alot, super helpful honestly. I think I’ll do salkantay then stay the lastnight after hike in aguas then do Machu in the morning.
Hi,
I’m trying to hike this solo but time is a little tight. Is it possible to get a ride from Mollepata to Soraypampa without being part of an organized group?
Thanks!
Aaron
There is no public transport that I know of. You could try hitching or see if someone in the village will take you for a fee.
Hey! Where can I read about your trek?
I didn’t write a trip report per se, just the backpacking guide.
Is the hike still beautiful in the rain season? And as for going solo, it is an easy trail to follow all the way through? No need for a guide?
I haven’t been during the rainy season. Generally at that time of year it rains in the afternoon, so you probably want to make early starts if possible.
Yes, the route is easy to follow and no you don’t need a guide.
Hi all we are planning to do the salkantay trek on our own no guide.. do we need to take sleeping bag? Thanks
Yes.
Thank you for all of the great info! I am planning a trip for this July and had a question.
You state that there is a nice campsite at Llactapata and that got me thinking. Do you remember how far it is from La Playa to Llactapata? I am thinking of pushing on from Collpapampa straight to Llactapata to stay at that campsite you are describing. Do you think I should do this?
Thank you
Cody
No worries. In regards to your question, it can take anywhere between two and four hours from La Playa to Llactapata. Whether you should do it or not is up to you. As I mention in the article, most folks take five days to do the whole trek, but there are no issues doing it in three if you are fit and acclimatized.
All the best,
Cam
I’m trying to hike this solo but time is a little tight. Is it possible to get a ride from Mollepata to Soraypampa without being part of an organized group?
Hi Cam, thank you so much for your detailed guide!
I plan to hike the Salkantay this April independently (with 1 friend).
Reading on internet about Salkantay vs Lares trek it looks like the Lares trek is more recommended if you want to meet locals, villages and the Andes culture in general.
Unfortunately the Lares trek is also shorter and it ends quiete far from Machu Picchu.
Do you have any comment on this aspect?
Will we have opportunities to interact with locals, or even to visit villages along the Salkantay?
or it will be more of a naturalistic/only-hiking experience?
Thank you!
Diego
Yes, the Salkantay passes through the villages of Colpapampa and La Playa. I haven’t hiked the Lares Trek so I can’t comment about that one.
Hi, i planned to do the salkantay in 5days but with a different schedule. The third day I would go straight to Llactapata and sleep there in a lodge. Do you think is to long to so this from Colcapampa/Chaullay? is the way up from La Playa steep? The fourth day would be easier from Llactapata to Aguas Calientes.
Thanks!
No, it’s not too long from Colcapampa. Yes, the climb from La Playa is steep at times.
Best of luck!
Hi There! Great write-up here. My wife and I will be doing a self-guided Salkantay Trek in July, and we are trying to figure out if we can arrange a taxi/bus between Chullay and Lucmabamba in order to skip that section. Do you (or anyone who just went) remember if you saw busses/shuttles/colectivos in this area (Chullay)?
Thanks!
Eric
Hi, Eric. I did Salkantay self-guided in September 2018 and don’t recall any vehicles waiting around, but there were roads and you might be able to arrange something by asking a local or shop owner to make a call for one. If it’s about time, and you and your wife are reasonably fit, the entiretrek is definitely doable in 4 days. This leg you’re seeking to skip is a nice transition from the more arduous incline/decline of the pass.
Hey there Matt,
Thanks for the info! The reason we are seeking to skip this is because we plan to stay up at Llactapata the next day, so we’d be looking at a 14 mile day 3 if we don’t catch any kind of ride, oof!
Eric
Hi Eric
I know there are collectivos in the morning at around 7:30 going to Santa Teresa and passing by Lucmabamba. I slept at Salkantay Hostel in Chaullay and the manager (Manuel I think) told me about them.
Hi Giuseppe,
Thanks for the info! We plan to spend the night in Chullay so I’ll be sure to stop by the Salkantay Hostel and ask about it the day before!
Eric
For those that have taken the train back to Cusco, which train did you use? I’m backpacking with one other person and we liked the price for Inca Rail but they have size restrictions on what to bring on the train
We used Peru Rail and it was great. Like Inca, there are size restrictions. Because we had full size packs, we emailed the Peru Rail inbox and asked for a waiver, which they granted. With that printed and supplied, they took care of everything without incident. Very accommodating! Can’t speak to Inca, but you might try the same if you want assurance ahead of time.
My husband and I took PeruRail which also had luggage size and weight restrictions. We pre-informed them by email of the size and weights of our backpacks – which they said was no problem. If you’re concerned I would email the provider in advance asking if that’s ok – there shouldn’t be a problem if you’re using a large backpack – it seemed like they were more concerned with large suitcases.
Hi There,
Does anyone know if you need to store your backpack somewhere before entering Machu Picchu?
Thanks,
Hannah
Thank you ever so much for a fantastic blog and how well you kept it updated.
I will go this trail solo in early february next year, and there is not much left for me to ask now, but I know most seem to do this trail in five days. My question is, it that because of the distances between campsites and lodges? I will spend six weeks in Peru and I would not mind making it seven days, but not by staying two days in one spot, even though I can consider staying in one place for two days, if I feel my body is being beat.
Second question, I understand I can buy the permits on arrival in Aguas Calientes? I dont really want to buy the permits too early as I understand it is lowseason so Permits should not run out, and I belive I read the permits where for a specific day?
3rd question is related to internet. Did you have any internet while hiking, and if so, did you purchase a local cashcard or similar, or did you just use internet while lodging at wifi accesspoints?
Hi Cam,
Excellent post! Would you or someone know where to find information about dealing with emergencies? I assume a cell phone would not be useful. Satellite phone perhaps? Are there evacuation options? I understand altitude sickness can be very serious.
Thanks!
Great Post! What is the best place to camp the night before Machupicchu, I’ve heard Aguas Calientes is not worth to see and it’s a very touristic place. We would like to scape from the crowds and do some hiking around (if possible). Someone mentioned Mandor might be the place we are looking for. What is Mandor and where is it? How far is it from the entrance to Machupicchu?
I did the Salkantay Trail by myself in September, and I camped at the Municipal Camping Park, about 20 minutes outside of Aguas Calientes and much closer to the Machu Picchu entrance. My tent was one of two at the park – nearly vacant. It was very quiet, and only a 5-10 minute walk to the entrance of MP – which is key, because you want to be there before they open! My recommendation: Purchase your 6:00 am ticket months ahead of time. If you have a 6am ticket, get in line at the gate entrance at ~4:45 am, as that will give you enough time to climb to the park entrance and be first in line (assuming you can hike fast). By being first in line and first allowed into the park, I had the park to myself for several, luxurious minutes, and none of my photos contain any people. ?
Thanks for this info, Kim!
I plan to do this hike by myself as well, did you feel safe the entire time? And how many days did it take you to reach Machu Picchu? I am trying to predetermine which day to book my ticket (crossing fingers that this will even be possible in the foreseeable future). Did you start at Mollepata or Soraypampa? Thanks again for any info!
Oh yes, very safe! I left from Mollepata, and spent four nights total (including the one near the MP entrance). Have fun!
Hi Kimberly! What route did you take between Collpampa and Aguas Calientes and approximately how far was it (inkm or hours)? Thanks so much!
Hmm…I can’t remember where Collpampa is exactly, but I went up and over Llactapata – a huge highlight of the trip!! Stayed the night way up there, with my tent perched on the edge of the mountain looking out over Machu Picchu. From there is was an easy walk to Aguas Calientes – impossible to get lost, very well traveled route.
Hey there! Great info!
My gf and I are pondering either solo or guided salkantay trek in mid April. We were thinking of doing a hybrid where we would trek alone, but stay in hostels, allowing us to not bring tent and whatnot, but I find absolutely NO info on reserving nights at the hostels at any of the predetermined stop (soraypampa, collpapampa,etc). Are these only available to guided tours?
Thanks
Hi there. You don’t need to make any reservations whatsoever. There are lots of hostels/places to lodge – more than could ever fill. I had a tent, but I remember being hawked at by at least 5 men in Soraypampa, trying to get me to rent a cabin. Even near Llactapata there are a couple of simple places where you can stay for very cheap (there is a “restaurant” at the stunning campsite 10 minutes below the ruins that looks down over Machu Picchu. You can sleep on their floor for a few soles). I would bring a sleeping bag though, just in case!
Thanks for the reply Kimberly!
So just to be sure: there should be no problem finding some kind of accomodation in Soraypampa, Collpapampa, La Playa and Aguas Calientes, all with NO reservations, just showing up?
We want to avoid bringing a tent along, but we dont want to be stuck sleeping outside either. We would surely bring a sleeping bag.
We’re not looking for 5 star hotels, just a roof over our heads, 4 walls and a matress preferably.
Yep, you should have no problem! Plenty of people on the trail willing to sell you lodging and food (and beer!) too.
anyone has update on independently going salkantay trail and the permit requirement.
It is now 2023, 3 yrs since the last blog entry. A call to the hotel staff claimed that it requires permit.
Any info on how to get permit, in person or online?
Hi, we are going to Salkantay trek in October, without a guide. We don’t want to go directly to MP, do we have to buy a ticket?
For MP? Yes.
Your question is a bit confusing. But a ticket for MP? Yes, naturally. Or do you mean buy a ticket for the trail itself?? No – no fees, no permits, nada. Very easy to do on your own. I took a collectivo from Cusco to Mollepata and started there at the beginning.